Saturday, December 10, 2022
HomeFashionPeter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Evaluation – Everlasting Type

Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Evaluation – Everlasting Type

Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman primarily based in Zurich. He does a whole lot of educating of hand-sewn leather-based methods, together with lessons, movies and particular person coaching. He additionally sells leather-working instruments. (Once you’re a bespoke craftsman, it’s good to have a number of sources of revenue.)

It’s the luggage he makes himself I needed to spotlight, nonetheless, as I lately had a briefcase made and it is among the loveliest items of leather-based work I’ve seen. 

I selected a basic flap-over briefcase model, particularly in a Barenia leather-based and uncooked brass {hardware}. 

Years in the past I purchased an exquisite Sac a Depeches briefcase from Hermes, however in a ‘shadow’ leather-based that doesn’t age in any respect actually, and palladium {hardware}. 

Whereas I’ve cherished utilizing that case, I at all times questioned whether or not I ought to have gotten the brighter and fewer conservative – however maybe extra stunning – Barenia. That is me lastly placing that to the take a look at. 

I did need to cowl Peter’s workshop, however I wasn’t going to get to Zurich any time quickly. 

So I reached out to a few mates and PS readers who reside there – Paul Fournier and Andrew Borda. Paul turned out to have the time that week, so he popped alongside and acted as our roving reporter. That’s him on the left, under, with Peter. 

“Peter was a terrific host and his crew is gorgeous – fairly a gem of a discover I have to admit,” says Paul. 

“I gained’t thanks although, as a result of I then positioned an order I undoubtedly hadn’t deliberate!”

Paul questioned Peter, and found that though he’s been within the leather-based enterprise for 12 years, he didn’t begin at an early age, as most do. 

Quite, Peter started in textiles, shopping for and promoting classic materials, then garments and equipment. Often he would scout items in Paris after which deliver them again to Zurich to promote.

He finally had two outlets, one in every metropolis, specialising in classic. However then, throughout a visit to Paris he met an Hermès craftswoman, who made him fall in love with saddle stitching and leather-based work. 

Peter started educating himself at evening, in addition to asking the craftswoman to journey and educate him in Switzerland. This expertise, he says, is one factor that makes him eager to show others. 

Peter finally acquired some notoriety, that includes in Vogue France and dealing with Colette. 

For my bag I used to be eager for a basic briefcase, however Peter additionally satisfied me to strive his explicit twist lock (above), the place a claw-like piece of brass is twisted to safe the entrance, however slips by way of a formed gap within the brass plate to open. 

I’m glad I did, for the lock could be very satisfying to make use of – it slips by way of effortlessly when opening, however locks into place completely whenever you flip it. 

The mechanics of {hardware} are surprisingly necessary, I discover. As you employ it many instances a day, you’re always reminded of any lack in high quality or small misalignment. 

It’s one distinction I at all times discover between my finer umbrellas from the likes of Heurtault, and fewer cautious ones from Talarico

Extra prosaically, we lately purchased a brand new oven at dwelling and though it capabilities effectively in each different respect, the knobs to manage the hob are flimsy and scrape barely whenever you flip them. I’d pay good cash to get these changed with one thing higher.

(In fact, you can take this to an excessive and get irritated at each such factor in life. However I feel the feelings of it are actually as much as you. A greater manner to have a look at it’s, when you’ve gotten the selection, why not have one thing higher – and reward the maker who made it that manner?)

The rationale I really like Barenia leather-based is the best way it ages. The intense tan regularly softens to a wealthy brown, and the nicks and scratches it simply acquires get labored into the floor, changing into fainter till they only add to the feel. Slightly like a calf shoe.

I’ve seen this occur with a pockets of mine, with a belt and likewise with the envelope we designed with Equus a few years in the past. 

So I understand how this bag will look in a yr or two, and I don’t panic on the scratches it’s acquired. The identical goes for the brass lock, which I needed uncoated, can depart to tarnish, after which will deliver again as much as a shine if and once I need. 

The way in which these processes work just isn’t a simple factor to speak, and that’s why so many leather-based items are made right now with handled surfaces that may by no means change – however like plastic, don’t have any character both. It’s additionally the rationale so few of Peter’s purchasers are Swiss – all most of them need, in line with him, is Dior and Chanel. 

I don’t suppose I’m exaggerating once I say it’s genuinely your function as customers to indicate this, speak about this, and unfold the phrase. Educated patrons are the one manner such crafts survive.  

The larger query for me in commissioning this bag was not the leather-based, however whether or not I’d truly carry a briefcase nonetheless. 

In case you’re nonetheless within the type of occupation the place you put on a darkish go well with to work every single day, a black or brown briefcase is a good selection. (For many, an attaché case is sadly too formal.)

Nonetheless, in case your office is changing into increasingly casual, a tote bag like the PS bullskin one or a canvas briefcase, like the Filson we lined lately, might be going to be extra applicable. 

And for me? It’s unlikely I’ve a working week much like any reader; however I even have a necessity and a need to put on sensible fits extra typically. 

To date I’ve discovered I like carrying the briefcase quite a bit – partly as a result of it’s one thing further so as to add to an outfit when ties and handkerchiefs are a lot much less widespread. 

Actually, this is among the good issues about summer season too, I’ve present in current weeks. Sun shades and hats are purposeful, essential equipment, but additionally add one thing ornamental to every day put on. 

I like carrying the bag with fits and smarter jackets, like the dark-brown Crispaire go well with from Dalcuore pictured. It’s excessive distinction, and actually provides one thing further with out these equipment. 

However nonetheless, I carry different issues like my totes way more typically, and if I didn’t have already got each base lined, it wouldn’t have made sense. 

Peter’s work is ok and exact, and incorporates quite a few little craft touches – equivalent to one-piece gussets on baggage like mine, with one gusset shorter than the opposite so it at all times stands up straight. 

I’d suggest him to anybody that appreciates hand-sewn leather-based. 

Most of his work is for girls, and a lot of the social feed is of the educating, however there are some beautiful designs hidden in there. He does every thing from watch rolls to wallets, purses to journey baggage, and instances for vintage weapons or cigars. 

And naturally, if you will get to Zurich – as I couldn’t – it’s value seeing the workshop in particular person. Thanks Paul for doing that in my stead. 

Atelier Peter Nitz is at Spiegelgasse 29.

Luggage run from SFr4000 (£3300) to SFr8000. My bag was SFr6400. Unique leathers vary from SFr10,000 to 30,000. 

Programs and tutorials vary broadly in time and worth. Particulars on each at these hyperlinks. 



Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here

Most Popular

Recent Comments

%d bloggers like this: